Sculpting Gel Nails – Step by Step Tutorial


Hi, I’m Suzy, and I’m in the mood for sculpting gel I got four fingers ready to go, this is gel sculpting 101. Let’s get started! So the rules for sculpting gel or acrylic are the same with whatever you use and I just want to show you the product that I’m using today, the one I’ve chosen to work with. This is called mosaic I picked this up about a year ago, in Vancouver at a trade show, and I just really like the book So what drew me to the company was specifically these beautiful colors that they have in gel. It’s a gel overlay, which is a colored gel– a paint gel, you might say so we’re gonna sculpt with one of their sculpting gels first, then we’ll get to the beautiful color So I’m gonna sculpt today with this cover pink builder gel before we begin, we have to prep the nail. Now every company has -their- products that they want you to prep with, but it’s Basically all the same to prep the natural nail Remove the dust, cleanse with an alcohol, do a primer if applicable for one, Sometimes they have them built in, and then there’s usually a clear base of gel that you put on -before- you start sculpting, Especially if you’re applying it to natural nails, that must be applied to natural nails first, so I filed these nails completely They’re ready to go I haven’t put any product on. So I’m gonna start with, and I usually do this with all my gels Especially because I’m wanting to remove the dust. I do a nice little clean swipe with alcohol and that is Just cleansing the nail Getting rid of all the dust Most product that we work with does -not- like to have Any dust particles in there. It makes it all bumpy Especially when you’re putting on top coats and finish Okay, so this company has what we begin with called the freshener and what we’re gonna do with this– is we’re just gonna paint it on every finger carefully Now I suspect this is an alcohol base as well OK! and then the second step Oops! (laughs) this is called the Ultrabond Primer I don’t think they meant to put that upside down, (chuckles) It’s totally a mistake. Now this is clearly their primer Now when applying a primer you want to make sure that you’re putting it on quite carefully, you do -not- touch the skin Just place it on the nail plate (♪♪♪) So next is a base gel. Most companies will have a base gel to put down first before you put down a sculpting gel This company has a couple, but I’m gonna use this it’s called Architect X even says right on it for you, ‘base gel’ I have noticed it’s -very- thick, look at this Very thick. I don’t want to put it on really thick So I’m going to take some off of the brush. That’s not really goopy on me now It’s the last thing I want So I’m gonna put a nice layer of this (♪♪♪) It’s leveling up nice, so it has a little bit of a self level to it so you can see that it’s not Chunky or liney or anything, It’s actually leveling up quite nice, see that? there’s a bubble on that one, and im gonna try to get rid of it Okay, that’s really pretty So this needs to be cured in a 36 watt lamp This one’s got a countdown which is kind of handy. there we go, okay. So now we are ready to sculpt, so I’m gonna grab a form now this company has beautiful forms Not that forms have to be pretty, but these are really pretty. So they have sort of a round shape and then they have the oval shape my fingers tend to be a bit more the oval so I’m going to grab the oval I do always rip the top of it I’m just gonna go like this a little bit Just to just sort of soften it up a little bit cuz it is a really stiff paper Every company seems to be a bit different, okay, so I’m gonna slip my finger under there (♪♪♪) I usually press my sides down make sure I’ve got that first and then Yeah, this goes on much better this time I’m gonna just pinch that together I’ll look down.. That’s a little more straight. I like that Now every company, like I say, has their own rules of how many wattage they might have and how long you’re supposed to nuke it for, so this is actually only 15 seconds in a 48 watt. Oh Look at that beautiful color Okay now I will have to move this pot out of the way because we’re gonna work with it quite and for an old light I Always like to have a little Lint free pad next to me I’m just going to spray that little pad just to clean my brush off Now they do have a really nice brush. It is called the mosaic gel builder number six So when you’re building a nail like I say whether it’s acrylic or gel or whatever you’re using The structure is always the same And that is you want to make sure you have your arch in the center point very thin near the cuticle Building an arch and then tapering off ever how long it’s going to be and of course That’s a very simplified way of saying it, but when you are applying gel. It’s a bit of a different way to apply it Than it is with acrylic and gel is very forgiving There’s a little bit of self levelling property up there cause it just kind of zooms up to it so what I’m going to do is I’m going to put it on to the nail and Now we’ve got the base coat on so it’s gonna stick to the base coat But we want to make sure we’re building it so what I do is I get it as close to the cuticle as I can without touching Whatever gel touches it does stick to Now you have to watch with some gels depending on the viscosity You don’t want it to self level right into the cuticle In other words further than where you put it Now there’s several methods you can do You can ice back and forth You can do circular motions. I kind of like the circular motions especially near the cuticle I don’t know what viscosity. This would be maybe a medium It’s not running everywhere at all some people also do this method. It’s actually quite effective I do want to lengthen it a bit, so see how I just pulled it right out Again, gel sticks to sticky gel so wherever you pull it it just kind of follows Now the beauty of this is it’s not curing it will not cure until you put it under the light that’s the beautiful thing about gel a lot of people don’t know but gel and acrylic are made of the same stuff The same stuff is in it, there’s there’s acrylic in gel that’s what it’s made up acrylic My theory is they called it gel because acrylic was already taken Try not to make it too thick I’m just gonna turn it this way a little bit Will be a really bad angle for you to see they’re just trying to get this one side a little bit more filled in Okay, so I’m gonna cure that I want to say nuke. I’m gonna nuke it That only needs 15 seconds Bring my little pink papers back into play my gel back in here, so I can see that it’s kind of lumpy and bumpy and I’m going to try to fill in those lumps and bumps, and I need a little bit more structure over here and definitely through the arch I Am gonna do this long pointy finger. I’ve decided. I really like that So different gel companies will have different viscosities and sometimes one company will have lots of different viscosities Just depends on how many products. They actually have You just got to find the one that works for you Now gel is a huge advantage in that it’s quite a bit easier to learn and It’s not quite as structured as you can see you can sort of lump it on and You know take your time creating as long as you want you can see that you can take That time to sculpt whatever you want, and then after you cure it, then you can just shape it which with acrylic It’s you know. It’s curing up on you you have to have much choice, but hurry You have very it’s a very short learning time But this you have a lot of playtime Now in general I do find that gel is a bit softer of a product more flexible So it does tend to break more than the acrylic But if it’s done right with proper structure And you’re not a super hard on your nails it can be quite sufficient quite a happy now See by going back and forth like that you can really fill it in I Think I need a little bit more decide I’m not happy no, that’s not confident that it’s gonna be very strong right in there so to make sure That it’s nice and strong That’s pretty good I feel confident that that’s pretty good. I’m gonna nuke that again Okay so with the gel like you don’t have to clean your brush or anything you can just move on you get another form Again rip that I’m just gonna shape it Oh phew guys anybody know what it’s my thumb it’s Halloween coming so I was just practicing so I thought I’d try the it clown if you can see that above I Did Instagram I don’t have the heart to take it off yet I am attending an event tomorrow, and I kinda want to keep it on for that so bear with me He’s gonna be creeping around this that you gather video for So I’m there’s a hair on there, I’m just gonna get it off It’s one thing about Gel, it’s very sticky this one was a bit easier to form because the nail free edge is a bit square so it Was quite a bit easier to form oval ones are harder to form and when I’m pinching the floor. I’m pinching quite a bit Because I’m not gonna pinch the nail with anything, so I just want to make sure that it’s nice and thin nice and narrow you can see them going quite narrow I Could actually take this off to see how it looks And you know I could use this form again see how its formed already I could just stick it under here just might work Are you better for the pinkie yeah, the cone nicely just sat in there for the pinkie Now when they make forms stiff like that you can use them again, I wouldn’t use them on different people But I would certainly use it on the same person Okay, let’s build that out now. I notice this cuticle. I’m gonna make it a little bit thinner they can help me here You do a little bit better newly cuticle I’m gonna fold this down because caromed has a tough time trying to see it with these pieces of paper sticking up in our way So the idea is to make it very flush near the cuticle And you know the better you are in applying it it just means the less you have to file And that’s always the goal you want to make the application as Good as you can and you really can do that with gel you can learn a lot faster with gel Simply because it doesn’t rush you at all See how I’m just building out that fridge I did forget to see what number he had built this one to Just have to eyeball it and so the numbers are four on the end just so you can measure basically Would you want it a bit smoother near the cuticle a bit more structure there Yeah, I kind of do like those circle motions especially in the cuticle just seems like a natural fit So just remember whatever you do The structure is key important if you’re making this with flour and water or silly putty for that matter You just want to make sure the structure. That’s what makes a nail is the structure of the structure isn’t right It can be off by a fraction and your client will blow their nail It’s so important to get that structure right and that takes quite a bit So there is a trick you can do you can turn it upside down for a few seconds So depending on the viscosity it’ll fall into the center for you, and it’ll create a natural arch So I’m just going to nuke this for another 15 seconds I’m gonna finish sculpting the rest of these and then we can start filing Take off my forms the best way to take them off I find is to just sort of loosen them And then pull downward So Bunch it up in the center And then pull down Sometimes when you take the forms off you get a really good Look at it, and that’s also the time you can decide if you have to add anything that would be the top okay So Chuck my forms, and then I’m going to clean the surface now Because spacing should check actually usually there’s a sticky layer. Yep I don’t know of anyone that doesn’t have a sticky there, so you remove the sticky layer And now I’m gonna file now I do wear a mask when I’m filing gel specifically because it is quite a soft fine I’m gonna always do what I’m doing one nail here sometimes I don’t cuz I’m talking and I want you to hear me, but I do wear masks when I’m doing What I’m doing lots of filing Okay, so I got some trusty files now. I will tell you gel is quite a bit easier to file It’s a softer product, so you don’t have to have a drill with it. I mean I don’t have to have a drill with With acrylic either it just depends on what you want to file But gel is pretty soft and easy to file with a hand file So what you want to do is you want to go over top the whole thing But you don’t want to file it flat you want to keep your file in a ground half barrel motion When you do that. You keep the nail round you don’t want your nail flat So I’m either Turning my hand or I’m turning the file in this case I’m holding my hand frozen into one spot so you can see how much I’m turning my file see that just literally going like this as I file I’m rocking back and forth What it does is all the high areas you have When you file like that you’re taking all the high areas down to match the low areas, and that’s what gives it that nice smooth Finish look how easy that was to file my goodness. We’re just about done So now I’m just being gentle right near the cuticle I’m checking for any there’s a bump and left over here, so I’m just gonna take that out from underneath Now can you see if I wipe this like this you see those little shiny spots right there See those that is where the file has not hit that Surface yet, it hasn’t been filed so that means it’s a pocket. It’s a dip it sound like a pothole So I still need to make sure I’m filing So that eventually you don’t see that you see this chalkiness over top of the whole thing Even this cuticle area that hasn’t been filed now now it has didn’t take much to get that so now these are still pockets They’re dips So I’ve got two choices to file it where it’s smooth so that you don’t see that anymore But if it’s really deep I may have to fill it But it looks like yeah a couple of buffs, and they’re gone, so they were quite shallow Okay, well that filed up really fast, that’s one advantage, and that’s why it’s a little bit softer too because It’s just a softer product. So it files up really quick I’m just going to finish it And this file is just a buffing file. This is not shaping So many different grits and files that we need when we’re making nails. Oh my goodness Look how fast that filed up that was no time at all. I don’t even use the drill that is one beautiful thing about gel Okay, so I’m just gonna go ahead and file the rest of these They’re a pointy now, we’re gonna add some Beauty I’m in the mood for nude. I said everything like nude even my shirt, and we’re gonna pick a pretty color And that’s what we’re going to do next Okay, so I filed them up really fast. They’re super pointy And now I am ready to Put some beautiful color on them you can see it’s a very beautiful color Before we put color on it, but I just want to get some of the colors from there on it so this is their gel paints and Again, you can sculpt this with any product that you’re using and just I have to pick a product so I picked this one today Nice oh, that’s just gorgeous, so I’ve got two packages So this is called a good evening kit, and it’s sort of an international theme So I believe I’m wearing Dublin, so let’s see well. Here’s the colors on the edge there Let’s try in London and in Stockholm London and Stockholm And this kit, this is good morning kit Okay well, let’s try, Ottawa because you know I’m Canadian and You pick one Camera Man which one Helsinki, Helsinki, Ottawa and Helsinki Ottowa I just like to say Helsinki And Helsinki They’re all gorgeous okay, so I’m gonna use this brush again, so let’s start with Helsinki Pretty Now this is not a builder gel This is a colored gel, so we simply want to paint it on just like we would a nail polish We’re just doing it with this brush Mm, this is pretty, too Nudes are very interesting they can look beautiful on one person and Not so nice on another and is strictly based on skin tone Ottawa is pretty It’s an, oh yeah it’s really pretty, Ottawa apparently is beautiful I’ve never been to Ottawa that are supposed to be beautiful Oh Lovely beautiful soft nudes now Stockholm And we’ll see if these two are very similar in color, which one actually might be darker Yeah, it does look like this one might be a little bit darker, so Clean that brush up, and if you’re having trouble just spray with a little bit of alcohol and just wipe your brush It’s kind of a grey like a London Fog It’s very pretty I love gray Now again, this is gel. It’s not curing up on you, so you have a lot of time to just smooth it over And make sure you’re happy with it Very pretty Okay, so I’m gonna put them out of my light rays and I’m gonna nuke them Okay, so I’m gonna give them all a second coat and now is the time for the reveals. Let’s check out the nudes Well they turned out beautiful and now I’m gonna see how long the mosaic brand wears, and how well they wear But that’s how you sculpt it. No matter what product you’re using so I want to tell you guys about Instagram I’m having so much fun on Instagram and posting crazy things like this nail and Other Halloween designs and grant getting a spray tan which is so much fun But you want to check me out. It’s nail career education on Instagram I’d love to see you guys there and what you’re doing with your nails Thank you for joining me for this video, and I can’t wait to see you guys in the next one

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