Anovos Proton Pack Build

Anovos Proton Pack Build

Hey guys, Brian Schoof here for Bombastic
Entertainment .com and today; I’m super excited because I’ve finally put the finishing touches
on a long standing nerd project; building a movie quality proton pack replica. Now, I’m no stranger to prop building, I’ve
done a lot of props and make up FX not only for my own, but for other peoples films over
the years, but being a life long fan of movies; certain prop builds like fully functioning
Mystery Science Theater robots, and making a Proton Pack to add to my collection has
always been kind of a bucket list build project for me. I did quite a bit of research and as much
as I’d have liked to scratch built this entire thing, Anovos just happened to announce they
were putting out a kit for $600, and it just made more sense financially to throw my hat
into that ring and even though it was a kit, I’d still get to have all the fun of putting
it together myself. Well, enough has been said on the Internet
about Anovos consumer practices, and I’m not going to get into that here, what I will say
is that it took 2 years for my pack kit to finally arrived and surprisingly; everything
was intact! I had heard some horror stories about people
getting their kits and parts being broken, and luckily, none of mine were… I was missing one small aluminum side knob,
and I reached out to them about sending a replacement, and to their credit, they are
going to make it right, but as of posting this video almost four moths later; I’m still
waiting for my replacement knob. Make of that what you will. Now, full disclaimer; I’m not taking credit
for everything here � while I was waiting for my kit to ship, I discovered the forums
on and if I had found that forum first, I might not have gone the Anovos route,
but it was pretty inspiring to see what everyone had done with their pack builds, and to be
able to cherry pick ideas for what I wanted to do, with my pack, so I owe a lot to those
forums and encourage everyone to check it out if you’re interested in building a pack
of your own. While this isn’t meant to be an in-depth tutorial,
I’m going to break this video down into a few sections and provide time stamps in the
video description. I upgraded certain pieces, and while Anovos
provides a complete kit to build, I’ll show the originals included with the kit and try
and explain why I upgraded them as we go along. First, let’s start with unboxing… Chances are, if you watching this video, you’re
not interested in following the included instructions, and I can’t blame you. While they were a good starting point, they
basically just show you an exploded view of the pack, and thrower, and call it a �step�. I mean, right here; just put the whole pack
together. One step. It’s that easy! Get real. So it’s a decent reference point for somethings,
but woefully inadequacy for others. The biggest thing I found them helpful for
was inventorying the parts to make sure everything was all here, then tried dry fitting things
together to see if I could figure out what they meant. When that failed, I used a hybrid approach of looking at reference
pictures of screen used props and referring to what people did with their own pack builds
over on the Gbfans forums, and that got me through some of the messier parts of this
build. Before you start, you’re going to want to
dry fit all your pieces together first, and I recommend trying to get all your drilling
and tooling done before you paint to minimize complications later. With everything sorted, I laid out what I
knew was going to need painting, and prepped those pieces and I didn’t need to do a whole
lot in that regard. Mostly, everything gets a couple coats of
blank paint, and for that I used Rustoleum Satin Canyon Black. Since this was a paint and Primer in one,
I didn’t bother sanding or priming the pieces and I have to say; they take paint extremely
well so just make sure the pieces are clean and dry so they don’t trap dirt or moisture
and go all Silent Hill on you, and and that’s really all there was to that. I didn’t do much in the way of weathering. After thinking about it for a few days, I
decided I’d weather once I had some actual dings to cover-up and for the most part I
was just going to have a �fresh from the factory� look but one thing I did weather
are the hand grips on the neutrino wand and for that after painting the wand black, I
masked off the thrower, gave the handles a coat of Rustoleum Cinnamon, and after that
fully cured, I buffed that off with extra fine grit sand paper and scotch bright, and
that created a nice well worn looking resin effect, that the screen used prop had. Then on the ion arm assembly, after it was
painted black, since it was made out of aluminum, I just roughed it up with some sand paper. I did have to revisit painting as assembly
went on due to some occasional build casualties, or unforeseen problems. More on those as we go along… While Anovos provides a complete kit, there
were certain things I just thought could have been better and since I’m only doing this
once, there were things I thought could really take this pack to that next level… here’s
a list of things I upgraded from the stock kit… Hat Lights/clip lights
real Clippard Valves and brass fittings Elbow fittings
a lights and sounds kit from Aluminum trigger ring
PH-25 Resistor Booster Ladder
Labels A Bar Graph bezel kit from Gbfans user Spongeface
Some of the body tubes were replaced with 1/8 tubing I had left over from a previous
ghost trap build. As I mentioned already, even though I upgraded
certain pieces, I’ll show the originals included with the kit and try and explain why I upgraded
them as we go along. So, on the pack itself, the first thing I
wanted to get out of the way was any drilling, or tooling I’d need to do… now, before you
start cutting on this thing, I cannot emphasize strongly enough; you should be wearing a particle
mask. The pack is made out of resin and fiber glass,
and fiberglass is about the worst thing you can possibly breath, so be smart and use a
mask. The cyclotron holes were pre cut, so that
was nice… I had to drill a hole where the ribbon cable
plugs into the body, and that was easy enough with a large drill bit. By far the hardest, most involved thing in
the entire pack build was cutting out and fitting the power cell window. For that I drilled a series of small holes
with a regular drill bit just to cut the bulk out, then came in with a cutting burr on a
rotary tool to knock out the rest. THEN came in with a square file, and cleaned
up the edges. You’d think you were done, but that’s just
the beginning… I tried to dry fit the power cell window in
place, but the interior of the pack shell here isn’t flat, so I had to grid it out quite
a bit using my rotary tool and a cutting burr. Just take your time, and try to get it as
flat as possible. It’s not going to be pleasant, and it’s going
to make a mess, so hopefully you’re doing this in a garage and not in your kitchen… I was getting a little worried with so much
grinding I’d go straight through the power cell, so once I got a fit that was reasonably
close, I blew the pack clean with an air hose. I made sure the electronics would fit as well,
and once I was certain there was enough room for everything, I glued the acrylic in place,
then I used some loc tite epoxy putty to form a seal around the window to prevent any light
leaks. For the cyclotron, I super glued those in
place, let them dry, and hot glued some flashlight reflectors over the holes. The bumper had its holes pre drilled, but
on my copy, the mating holes on the pack had to have its holes drilled out, so I put the
screws into the bumper, then made sure they lined up with the holes on the pack body. Once I was sure they lined up, I drilled out
the holes on the pack itself, cleaned those out, then fit the bumper on, and screwed it
in place. The long screw that holds the bellows on was
just a little off center, so I widened the hole on the bumper, and then it dropped right
into place. Then you can run the nuts on, and secure everything
in place. Installing the ribbon cable was pretty simple…
basically found the end and lined the plates up, and used a power drill to cut holes in
the ribbon for the attaching screws. Getting it twisted into shape is kind of an
aesthetic thing; I can’t really provide any insight here; just look at some photos and
try and roll it how you think looks right. Probably the hardest thing was getting it
bolted down to the booster ladder while keeping the roll tight… a couple of zip ties would
have helped greatly with that. The on the inside, once I ran the bolts through,
I backed them with some super glue for added durability. And once the ribbon cable itself was run through
its hole, I secured it in place with a zip tie to prevent slipping, and buried that with
a wad of hot glue. For the Ion Arm, most everything glues into
place. I very carefully drilled out the holes in
the top and bottoms of the resistor using a drill press… and here, we have the first
casualty of the build. I went too big too fast with my drill bits,
and cracked the large resister, but all is not lost… I backed it with some epoxy putty, let that
set up, hit it with some spray paint, and it’s not ideal, but it could have been worse. Now, one of the pieces I decided to upgrade
was the PH-25 resistor on the side of the Ion Arm assembly… they included a nice one,
but I just knew having a real one would look better than any metallic paint job I could
do, so I drilled the hole out for it, clipped and filed the terminals flat, then inserted
it into place. Now, here I goofed up; I left the mounting
hardware on… it shouldn’t be there � on the other hand, something did need to be there
to cover the shape of the pre-keyed hole; you can see a little shelf on the replica
they included, but by the time I noticed it it was already epoxied into place. It’s not kosher with the movie, but I can
live with it. Another thing I upgraded, was I replaced most
of the brass fittings with real clippard fittings. They come with nice replicas, but you can
see the barb on theirs is smooth. It’s probably for ease of slipping the tube
over, but I decided to go the extra mile for authenticity’s sake. To get your tubes to slip on, I recommend
dipping the ends in some hot water, and when its nice and pliable, you can just slip it
down over the barb. You’ll do the same hot water trick fitting
the blue tube over this post here… I cut some of the mother tubing to size, making
an angle on the bottom so it will sit flush once its in place, then slid it down over
top of the blue tube and put a bead of E-6000 super glue to hold it in place. For the fittings in the pre-drilled holes,
some perfectly fit right in, some were loose so I had to super glue those into place, and
others I had to clean up and re-cut the thread with a tap. I do recommend getting a set of taps, they
not only come in handy here, in general they’re just a very useful tool to have around. For the N-Filter, I lined that with a sink
strainer, hot glued that into place, and backed it with some white foam I had lying around. I think something electronic I bought came
wrapped in it. It has a nice diffused effect, and when the
vent light goes off, the sink strainer adds a nice texture. The vent light itself is just secured into
place with some electrical tape and kind of hovers over the middle of the hole. You’d think it wouldn’t be bright, but when
it kicks it kicks; I think the white foam helps bounce the light inside
the hole. The neutrino wand is a whole world unto itself… I had a lot of respect for people who have
built these before, but having put one together myself, you can really see there’s certain
areas where form over function complicates the build process. Like with the pack shell, I tried to get any
drilling out of the way first, like for the clippard valve, and also made sure the holes
for the lights and switches would work. Now, the clippard replicas are nice with aluminum
knobs, but they’re meant to be glued into place so they’re not functional like the on
the real valves. The labels, for copyright reasons, I imagine,
say anovos on them so you could make these work with a bit of effort and some new labels,
but I decided to replace them for authenticity’s sake. After the initial painting and weathering
was done, I decided the thing to do was build this with a mind for how I was going to install
the electronics so as to not over complicate their installation later. Anovos claims on the product page you can
install electronics at a later date, and all I have to say is if you build this and then
try and install electronics; it’s your funeral. First, I marked all the wires and then disconnected
them from the electronics board so I could work with them individually; it’s too much
of a spaghetti mess otherwise. One thing that absolutely had to be upgraded
in my opinion was the covers for the lights. The Anovos ones fit nicely, but they were
mostly the wrong colors and since they’re basically just clip in bits of plastic on
pegs, I’m not sure how I would have gone about mounting the appropriate lights to them. You could probably make them work with some
paint or drilling, but I thought it was more trouble than it was worth, so those went �buh
bye�. The replacement fittings I got from Gbfans,
because I couldn’t find them anywhere else, especially the Hat Lights, they seem to have
corned the market on those, so once I had my set, I measured the holes with a caliper
and re-drilled the body holes to match the new fittings. The only one that gave me trouble was the
sunken white hat on the top… the wall inside the body just wouldn’t let it sit right so
I used a file and sanded off the lip on the one side and then it fit perfect and was glued
in from underneath. For fitting the LED’s into the sockets, I
cut some craft foam and wrapped them, then gently shoved them into the socket of the
light cover. It holds them pretty well, and I wanted the
lights to be removable in case I had to replace any later on. The trigger box and instrument bar didn’t
quite fit on my copies, so I used a dremmel to just kind of kiss the mating edges down
on the trigger box. You can see here we have another build casualty
on the instrument bar; I had to widen the hole for the red slo-blow light and that took
a bite out of the surrounding area, so I filled it back in with a little Bondo spot putty,
and hit both of them with a fresh coat of black before final assembly. Once the paint was dry, I fit the switches
inside the trigger box, and fished the wires through the instrument bar, then used just
a bit of gorilla glue and everything friction fit nicely. For the tube under the instrument bar, I did
the hot water trick to slide the green hose over the clippard barb fittings, and gorilla
glued those into place. On the inside, I backed the fittings with
a wad of loc tight putty for extra durability. In dry fitting the electronics, I didn’t think
the bar graph looked that great… it was back set too far and the interior surface
was very uneven; it would have had to be ground away to get any kind of decent fitting for
it… using a dremel I cut the bezel completely out to match the bar graph and used a square
file to clean up the edges. Rather than repaint the whole thing, I touched
up the exposed resin with a brush and a little black paint. I was originally going to just make a bezel
myself, but I saw online that a GBfans user by the handle Sponge Face sells a nice inexpensive
bar graph bezel kit so I bought one of those and I have to say, it really adds a nice extra
dimension to the setup… there’s a nice silver decal that adds some edge detail, and a lenticluar
lens cover that gives the thing a kind of 3D quality… it was classier than what I
was going to to, so I thought it was well worth the extra couple dollars. The barrel and handle was kind of tricky…
first, I had to widen the holes on the ear so the orange hat light and switch would fit
in… I used a caliper to measure how big the socket
was, so I only drilled a hole large enough for that to fit, but still large enough the
switch had a lip to grab onto. Originally my clear acrylic barrel wouldn’t
fit down into the handle. There was a lot of �slop� they way the
tube had been cut, so I cleaned that up with a router… all it took was a little bit,
and the acrylic barrel fit right in. Now here’s where it gets a little dicey…
since I’m running wires from the outside of the ear down through the handle to the electronics
in the body, you have to figure out how those wires are going to run from the outside to
the inside… After a lot of thought and looking at reference
photos of screen used packs, I decided the best thing to do was to drill a hole in the
base of the handle, then mark and do the same on the acrylic tube. Since acrylic is brittle, you want to build
up slowly; use a small drill bit, than gradually step your way up to a bit that matches how
big you intend the final hole to be. I didn’t trust myself to do this with a hand
drill, so I used a drill press. It’s a little nerve wracking, so like everything
else; just take your time, be patient and you’ll do fine. To fit the LED into the barrel, I cut a piece
of black foam and wrapped the LED, then gently pushed that into place using a screw driver. Once I glued the barrel into place, I fit
the ear switch and light into their sockets, I fished the excess down the barrel and put
a piece of shrink tube around those to protect them, then with the barrel in place. Now the barrel assembly can be fit onto the
body of the wand and you can get your wires all plugged back in. I used some string to fish the ribbon cable
that connects the wand to the pack electronics through the connecting tube, this way I could
attach both tube and ribbon to the wand at the same time. Then it was a matter of getting all the lights
plugged into place and and seating the electronics board. The vent light doesn’t have a socket; it’s
just kind of held in place by all the other spaghetti wiring. Mine isn’t quite in the middle, but I’m fine
with it being quote �out of place� because it still looks appropriately bright. Once all the guts were in place, it was time
to seal up the wand. On the base plate, I found more than half
of the pre-drilled holes to be off the mark. It seems like nothing can be simple with this
build… after some thought I very carefully marked where the holes should be with a silver
sharpie so the mark would pop against the black, and filled in the mis-drilled holes
with loc-tight epoxy putty, THEN re-drilled the holes. Make sure to fully mix your putty and let
it cure a full 24 hours, because otherwise it’ll tear right out when you try to re-drill
the holes, but if done right, the epoxy putty will be rock solid and acts as a great filler. You might need to do a little sanding to level
off the excess, and you’ll need to hit it with another coat of paint. Ideally, you would check this before you paint,
but in the excitement of everything, I painted first and this was one of the last things
I had to to. I found the cover on the instrument bar didn’t
quit fit, it was too late in the build to try and redrill the holes so I just knicked
a little off the one side with a dremel and then it fit into place. For the final touch, I slid on my aluminum
trigger ring… they included a nice replica, but like the PH-25 resistor on the pack, I
thought it would look a lot better than if I tried to do a metallic paint job, and if
I did, I thought it would stick out like a sore thumb being right next to the ring collar
which they did make out of aluminum… in attaching the brass legris, the included screws
didn’t quite work with my new trigger ring, so the ones I have here are just placeholders
until I can find appropriate ones later. Alright we’re in the home stretch now, and
we just have to figure out how put it all together… I started by attaching the vent into the pre-cut
hole… naturally; it didn’t quite fit, so I carefully sanded it down to get a friction
fit, then glued it into place. The glued these support struts over the back
like the directions say, so for the first time since almost the beginning; I’m actually
following the instructions. Next I fixed the misaligned holes on the motherboard. I did this the same way as on the neutrino
wands base plate; by marking where they should be with a silver sharpie, filling them in
with loc tite epoxy, letting that come to a full cure, re drilled the holes and married
it altogether with a fresh coat of paint. It was during this step I also aligned where
the Alice Frame was going to get bolted on. Now, a lot has been said on the forums about
people wanting to replace this motherboard with an aluminum one and if you have the means;
more power to you, but if this is your only option, honestly; just put washers on both
sides of your stand offs; that will protect the acrylic from any stress cracking that
might occur and the acrylic motherboard will take the pack weight no problem. With the frame in place, I planned where my
extra features were going to live… Going into this, I knew I wanted to have an
external power switch, so I used this round illuminated push button one. I also wanted an external charging port, and
while we’re making extra holes, I thought I’d also throw in an external stereo jack;
this way I can play anything I want off my phone through the sound system of the pack. None of this is movie accurate, but it adds
some nice extra functionality and being it’s all hidden between the board and my back I
figured it was a safe place to take some liberties. As far as the electronics go, I found the
Gbfans boards to be extremely well thought out. I decided for me the best thing to do was
mount the electronics inside the pack shell itself. It was during this step I finally attached
the crank knob to the pack. I wanted the knob to be able to control the
volume on the pack and the included knob has a post on it… to make this functional, I
cut the post off, and drilled a hole in the center of the knob the size of this old potentiometer
I had laying around, then drilled and tapped a hole for a set screw to secure the knob
to the potentiometer, Unfortunately, the gbfans sound pot was on
the back side of the soundboard, and the standoffs I had weren’t tall enough to counter that,
so to get the board to lay flat, I de-soldered their adjustment knob, and soldered the leads
of my potentiometer in their place. On the board they included terminals for an
external sound pot and I realize all of this could have been avoided by just having taller
stand offs, but I didn’t so I made due with what I had. Once I had them and all my external switches
in place, it just took a little bit of light soldering to attach some leads to go from
those into the terminals on the boards. Electronics are a whole new ballgame for me,
and at first it can seem intimidating, but soldering is really quite simple… I mounted the battery to the motherboard by
super gluing some double sided Velcro which will hold it in place and be removable should
I ever have to replace it. For the speaker, I felt kind of boxed in by
the pre-cut vent Anovos placed in the middle of the motherboard… I decided to cut some black cloth to glue
over the vent. I thought it looked a little nicer and would
not only blackout the inside, but protect it from exposure of external contaminants. Being this motherboard is made out of acrylic,
out of an overabundance of caution, I really didn’t want to have to drill any more holes
than I had to, so I tried to use these vent supports to mount the speaker and for that
I flattened some metal shelving brackets, bulked those up with some loc tite epoxy for
extra support, attached those to the speaker and super glued them onto the supports. Once that glue had cured, I encased the standoffs
and shelving brackets completely with hot glue to not only reinforce those, but to give
the whole thing a little more adhesion to the mother board…. Hot glue deserves more credit than it gets… I mean; I wouldn’t pull a truck with it, but
it’s essentially thermoform plastic. It’s pretty tenacious stuff. Now with the motherboard assembly completed,
I just had to bring everything carefully together. For the wand loom going into the pack, I put
zip ties on both the inside and outside ends so it would keep the loom from slipping in
or out. Now I just carefully attached my leads to
the board terminals and sealed it all up. And that was it! Or… so I thought… After a few days, some of my labels started
peeling off… I tried smoothing them back on, but they’d
just keep creeping off. It’s too bad because the print quality of
the stock labels is very nice, but the adhesion is just non existent. Maybe they’ll change something, but, that’s
how my copies were. I mean, I was dusting the pack with an air
duster, and one of the labels literally just blew off. I decided rather than use super glue, I’d
just upgrade the labels altogether, so I found some inkjet printable vinyl online, and not
only are these water resistant, they have much better adhesion than the Anovos pack
in labels. For the stripe on the N filter, I had some
left over red from a previous Halloween build, but you can find it for about a buck at Micheal’s…
cut a strip the width of a quarter inch, which I believe is the screen accurate size for
a GB2 pack, and applied that using a little bit of scotch tape as the transfer medium. I hid the seam at the bottom since that’s
the least visible part of the pack. I also bought a couple of Aluminum labels
and I think these add a really nice dimension. I tried replicating this look with silver
vinyl, and it while it photographs nicely, in person, it just don’t look the same, so
I thought the aluminum labels were well worth the extra money for the added character and
screen accuracy. �Well, that’s it; I put the finishing touches
on the only Halloween costume I’ll need for the rest of my life.� Overall, I’m extremely happy with how this
pack came out. People can debate screen accuracy all they
want, and that’s fine but to me; there’s always a point where the work becomes your own and
deviating from screen accuracy turns into you taking ownership of the work. Maybe there’s a paint run only you notice,
or a decal that is a little off center, but those touches are unique to your prop and
while we all start out trying to replicate screen accuracy it’s really just an idealized
starting point. There’s certainly things on here that aren’t
screen accurate and there’s a lot of little details I only know now because I’ve built
a proton pack but that discovery is all part of the fun of building something like this
yourself. Even though it was a kit you can see it still
took a heck of a lot of ingenuity and reverse engineering to get the thing to it’s final
shape. I’d like to thank everyone on the Gbfans forums
for being so helpful; while I was waiting for my Anovos kit to arrive I dug through
a lot of threads and it was really inspiring to see what people had come up with and to
be able to cherry pick little things here and there to take my pack to that next level. It’s really impressive how many people set
out to do the same thing, but we all do it a little differently. It’s a great resource and community and I
can’t recommend it highly enough. I’d also like to take a moment to plug my
bombastic entertainment channel; this was a bucket list prop for me, but I’ve been building
props and doing special FX for over 20 years and I have no plans to stop; we make short
films, interactive adventures and all kinds of stuff, so if you liked this video be sure
to check out some of our movies; there’s even some DIY videos about the making of those
over there as well. So if you’re building one of these kits hopefully
this video helps you brainstorm some creative solutions to any problems you’re facing. If you have any questions feel free hit hit
me up on twitter, or leave a comment below and don’t forget to check out bombastic entertainment
.com to see what we’re up to. Thanks for watching. �Learning to get this back on the V-hook
is a bit of an art…�


  • phil the thrill says:

    Looks like you worked really hard great job! Cant wait to see that in your movie

  • 6102livesipmurt says:

    Very nice build! Can I message you with questions about my own Anovos pack?

  • Kai Schmidthaler says:

    Great video! Got one myself and can't work with that poor excuse of instructions they provide. Your video helps me a lot and is greatly appreciated!

  • Cornelius James says:

    Thanks for the video. Wanting to get a kit myself. This vid will be a great help. Also I love your watch, mind if i ask what it is?

  • Kip Marshall's Drum Blog says:

    I have done nearly everything the way you have. Started with the Anovos kit and made all the GB Fans upgrades. This whole video was deja vu. I did however go one step further to make the barrel extendable. Considering that Anovos didn't even acknowledge the existence of the green lever, made it probably the worst part of the whole build.

  • ParanormalMC says:

    How did you mount the alice frame to the pack?

  • dsource. says:

    Great video! I'm building one of these too and your tips have really helped, thank you. I have the hat lights from GBFans like you suggested but have been unable to locate the red and white lights at 13.48 on the right in your video. Can you please let me know where you ordered yours from and how many I need? Thanks in advance,

  • Project Proton Pack says:

    Really enjoyed your video thanks mate, cant wait to start my own and you've give me some great insights thank you

  • 80TheMadLord08 says:

    How did you mount the motherboard to the pack?? The way I did it works but isn't good if you need to take it apart again…

  • says:

    Thanks for sharing this. I am starting a build to try to have it ready by Halloween. Going to be close. Question.. Where did you get the flashlight reflectors?

  • Alone in the Dark says:

    would you happen to sell these kits fully assembled like what you did with this video ?

  • MENTOL Erwin says:

    How can i order this kit bro?

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