👩‍🏫Resin Pour -Tutorial on Acrylic Pour Painting

👩‍🏫Resin Pour -Tutorial on Acrylic Pour Painting


Let’s resin this painting! So Today we are going to be… I’m going to be resoning quite a few paintings So I’m going to be mixing up more than I would need for this artwork Normally, you can refer to the instructions that come with your resin And it will tell you based on the square footage of your artwork how much The resin you should mix up. Your resin comes in two parts. You have your resin, and you have your hardener. I’m using Art n’ Glow resin today, But I have used East Coast resin brand I’ve used Art Resin brand and they both work just as well. East Coast resin and Art n’ Glow are your more affordable options. So I’m going to mix up… Materials wise you want to have gloves you want to have your resin you want to have a stirr stick, something that could also spread and stir; a double duty sort of tool. I love these cups because they are translucent. You can see your liquid level also it has the measurements on there so you can see where your levels come to. You mix the resin half resin half hardener. So today, I’m going to do 12 ounces resin to 12 ounces of hardener, coming up to the 24 ounce mark. I probably could use more than that for the amount of paintings that I’m doing today, but I don’t want to be stirring and sloshing it out of the cup. So I’m gonna… Sorry concentrating and talking is not easy. I’m just gonna do 24 ounces at a time and see how far that gives me another thing you need is this handy dandy culinary torch. You can get them on Amazon. That’s where I got mine. I can put a link in the description.That helps with getting the bubbles out afterwards. Some brands actually mark the cap for the resin differently than the cap for the hardener which is helpful because if you put the vice-versa cap on… the incorrect cap on the wrong bottle it could potentially cause the chemical reaction that would then harden the artwork and… harden the resin on the cap and then you could potentially have your cap fuse to your bottle, which would not be good. So now I am stirring this mixture you have to stir it for three to five minutes. So this is gonna take a while. I am resining on top of this artwork and two or three others. Then I have some artwork that I’m gonna play around with actually putting the resin on the bottom today I had one that I did that with I did a layer of white paint to prime the canvas and I put a layer resin, and then I did my acrylic pour painting on top of the resin and it turned out Gorgeous! I love it. You can find a video of it on my website. It’s called Nebula, I forget which number it is. I number my paintings, and I also name them. It is called nebula And it’s beautiful. I love it and I want to make more like it. This one is called Jupiter. It also has a video online that you can go check it out in detail. I take the videos of the paintings when they’re still wet. I have a hard time once. I’ve resined that once it’s dry and I resined the reflections are just so hard to work with.It’s like trying to pick take a picture of a mirror you just get more picture of the camera and whatever is in the room of the actual painting artwork. so That is why I do it that way. I’ve not been timing this, but I think I’m at about 2 minutes. I got one more minute to ago. So today I published a video on youtube called “Best Materials Tutorial” or something like that. I hope you check it out if you haven’t already. It just talks about my ingredients that I used for the acrylic pours, and why I use them. I also talked about resin a little bit in that but this is more of my instructional resin video. But I use GOLDEN acrylics exclusively for my paint and also for one of my pouring mediums. I used two pouring mediums; the GAC 800 which is GOLDEN brand product and then flood floetrol. The reason is that GOLDEN is the only brand that provides a density chart, which allows me to not have to use silicon. I don’t use silicone like the majority of the artists out there. I believe that it could compromise the quality of the end result artwork We don’t know if it will yellow over time, and I want to sell my paintings to an audience and feel good about them, not yellowing on their wall ten years down the road. So with the density chart you can know that the denser pigments are going to fall down to the bottom layer and the less dense pigments will come to the top. So therefore you can layer them in a way that you predict that they’ll try to switch places, and then you will get that cellular formation that everyone loves so much. So yeah, GOLDEN brand gives you the information to do that. Alright, so here we go. I’ve mixed it for five minutes. I don’t know if you can see in there, but it’s got air bubbles. You’re not gonna be able to avoid the air bubbles. They do sort of explode and then settle down during the mixing process. Alright, so now… I’m pouring the resin onto the wooden panel. I don’t work on canvases I…Some of my first paintings. I did on canvases and it just made a huge puddle in the middle and so then the paint wasn’t evenly distributed and it cracked down the middle. Crazing, cracking is a problem with acrylic pouring because the paint is applied so thick you end up… The paint dries from the top layer down so whatever is exposed to the air sort of dries with a pudding skin sort of thing and that pudding skin gets a lot of tension on it because the under layers are still liquidy and the skin shrinks They call it a film, I believe. The film on top shrinks as it dries and then if it if it dries too quickly while underneath this still liquidy then you end up with cracks. The whole top layer will just crack, and it will change the appearance of your artwork the underneath layers. Do not reveal the samee that’s on the top film. All right, so what I’m doing now is I am spreading this out. You don’t have to really worry about an even coating. Resin is self-leveling. What you have to worry about is avoiding bald spots. You want to make sure you really get it everywhere. I have taped the bottom not the sides. I haven’t taped the sides of my panel. I have taped the bottom, and I did that because as this flows over the side and it will start to do that as it flows over the side, it’s going to collect drips on the underneath side, the back of the panel. Those will harden into giant clear resin bumps that will then keep your artwork from lying flat against the wall that you try to hang it on. It looks really unprofessional and you can sand them off with a power sander or something, but that’s just an extra step if you could put tape back there to begin with you can avoid the extra step of having to sand it off. So I’m using the light from the window here to really see in the glare whether I have… There’s a big bald spot. Cannot talk without concentrating. Um… Sometimes it’s pretty hard to avoid bald spots. I haven’t had much luck with doing one coat perfect resin application. I tend to go back and do a second coat just so it’s nice and even. Now I’m realizing that I need it a little more. So I can pour a little more. It’s just not spreading out the way I’d like and I can tell by the way this is floating across the top that it’s setting really fast because I’ve warmed it up. It mixes better when it’s warm so I have had it on the radiator this whole afternoon. But now I see that the the second pour that I just did on it is almost skating across the first layer. So I might have warmed it up too much. c’est la vie! We will try to make it work. Now I see it’s good and goopy. I’m sure there’s still going to be some bald spots, but I’m going to let it settle and I’m going to use my fingers… because I haven’t figured out a better way to do this. I’m going to use my fingers to make it go on the sides. I should do this first, so I don’t get resin all over my torch. So let me check to make sure you’re still with me. You are. So torch. Can you see the flame in the sunlight. No. Probably not, but it is on. You can hear it. As I do this I can see tiny little craters appearing and then disappearing and what that is it’s the air bubbles coming to the top with the heat application and the gas is struggling. I need to refill it I can hear it get weaker. You can do it! So tired. Maybe more gas. Well, maybe that’s a good chance to show you that. So this is the refill. This is just one of the brands out there. I bought this off of the Amazon and the nozzle fits perfectly up in the bottom of my torch. I also bought this at my local sports supply store in the camping section and this does NOT have the right nozzle. This short nozzle does not work. It fits in there, but the gas just leaks right out. It doesn’t go up in. This one has the right nozzle and then also comes with this cap that has other nozzles inside the cap that fits for different applications, I guess. But this one works just fine, so you set it down and you push…1…2…3…4…5…6… I don’t know how long you should push, but I’m scared to push it too long. Then still seeing some bubbles come up I do not have a nice even coating But I’m really not gonna worry about it because I will probably do a second coat. It will level out some more but I also see some bald spots that are just being stubborn. Okay, I’m more worried about getting some resin on the side before it gets too hard And I still want to use some of this other resin that I’ve mixed up to do these other paintings. It’s gonna dry up soon. I’m really getting messy. I honestly haven’t figured out a better way to do this. Please, in the comments, tell me if you have come up with a better way to apply the resin to the side other than using your gloved fingers because I cannot figure out how to do it. I tried using that spreader / stirrer / putty knife or whatever it is and I end up still using my fingers because it just doesn’t do a great job. So, how do you guys do it? If you have messed with resin before, on an acrylic pour, and applied it to the sides of your paintings. How do you get it on the sides? I’m… You know, last time I resined I even just used my fingers and went over the surface to make sure there were no bald spots and I think I want to do that again this time. I use the spreader but I might just go over it again with my fingers. So here we go. I’m doing it. It’s really messing up the nice shiny glass of surface, but there’s no point in having a nice shiny glassy surface, if there are bald spots. So I’m just sort of massaging it in to get those bald spots covered and again, it’s self leveling. As long as it’s not starting to actually bond and harden, in which you have a 40 to 45 minute window, you should be okay. It should level back out. So now it looks really bumpy, but I don’t see any more bald spots. Hey! All right, now my fingers are all messy. You should have paper towels around. That’s a good idea. I did forget to bring the paper towels in here. So, I’ll do this. That is loud. Sorry. One more torch, and we’re gonna call it done for this layer. Second layer; some brands recommend saanding first, other brands don’t. They don’t say you can’t but they don’t say that it’s necessary. East Coast resin highly recommended sanding if you do a second coat after the first 12 hours. Art n’ Glow just says you need to let it sit for six before you do the second coat, but they don’t say that you have to stand it, and they don’t say how long… if you have a window where it is. … Sorry can’t talk and… concentrate. I’m seeing some smoke coming off and that’s probably not good, but I really don’t want to miss these air bubbles are One of these days, maybe I’ll get a better lighting situation and camera situation where you can see the air bubbles too. Oh Yeah, looking good. That’s hot! Making art is fun isn’t it? I’m gonna start sounding my Bob Ross here in a second. We run it over the sides one more time. Get some of this excess and some of the stuff that’s dripped put that along the sides. I didn’t mean to be in the camera shot in any of these videos, but it’s happening today in my bright red school shirt, my awesome bright red Friday school shirt. What are you gonna do? All, right! Y’all, I think we’re done. Nope. Why is it getting hotter? I’m having a major chemical reaction going on over here in the cup. I need to go apply some resin to some other artworks ASAP! Have a good day! Hope you enjoyed!

5 Comments

  • Rita Bunn. says:

    Love the colors

  • Courtney Hoelscher says:

    I wouldn't recommend mixing this much resin at a time unless you work VERY quickly. Higher volume results in quicker hardening, and HEAT!

  • Judy FairyArt Mother Sand says:

    I could not agree more with your reasoning for using Golden Paints. I would be horrified if my paintings discolored over time. For this reason, I’m scratching my head wondering why you’d go on the cheap with your resin. I know resin has a tendency to amber over time, but the cheaper brands will go so much faster. My preferred resin is Stone Coat Countertops’s Art Coat brand. They have added UV protection that the cheaper brands don’t. That’s why they’re cheaper. Art Resin is my second choice. Art Resin gives me about 60 minutes time to play. Stone Coat gives me 90 and I’ve pushed it to 120 under optimum environmental conditions. Stone Coat as a Quick Coat the sets up in about 20-25 minutes, which is great for just a clear coat as you did here. I rarely need to do a second clear coat and if I do, it’s usually because I didn’t protect my piece like I should. I’m not being criticle, but anyone who uses one of the best acrylics, should do the same with the resin (IMHO)
    I do enjoy your work and videos. 👍😁👏🏻💖

  • Mercedes Campain says:

    Thanks for sharing, very helpful

  • Laurence Mallick says:

    Tweezers!

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